In many respects Glasgow is similar to Liverpool in that both were major
industrial centers before suffering a serious economic decline in the postwar
years. Like Liverpool, Glasgow has similarly rebounded, and I was surrounded by
construction and signs of urban renewal throughout my stay. Unlike the rest of
my travels, I took the bus to reach Glasgow and overall it was quite enjoyable.
Unlike the bus ride to Liverpool, where my 6 foot 1 frame was granted little
leg room, I had plenty of space to stretch my legs, and plenty of beautiful Scottish
scenery to look at. Upon arriving in the city I took the bus... got lost...
asked for directions... got lost again... before finally finding my way to the
budget Hotel where I was staying. After checking in, I took the bus to the city
center and headed off towards the Cathedral. I should note that despite being
in the UK for roughly 3 1/2 months this was my first time riding in a
double-decker bus. Better late than never.
The Glasgow Cathedral was significant for being the only mainland Scottish
Cathedral to survive the reformation. While a protestant mob did attack and
loot the building, they were prevented from destroying it by the town's guild.
Even before this, the site was significant as being the burial place of the Scottish
saint, Mungo. Below the main Cathedral, there lies a second area, where the
saint is buried In addition, the lower Cathedral also contains the body of a
bishop who supported Robert de Bruce in the fight for Scottish Independence and
was deported to England as a result.
Behind the Cathedral lies the Necropolis. Built during the Industrial
Revollution in the midst of rapid population growth within the city, the
necropolis is the final resting place from many of the cities’ leading figures.
Including the guy who wrote Wee Willie Winky. Atop the cemetery is a monument
to the Protestant reformer John Know, who helped convert the people of Scotland
from Catholicism to Calvinism. From this monument one can get a beautiful view
of the city.
The next day, I started with a trip to the small town of Largs, more on that
in another post, before returning to Glasgow. I had some delicious French toast
in a small tea house, but, I must admit, that I found its efforts to be as
cutesy as possible rather off-putting. Ladies, there's a reason that men don't
want to come to these places. Saying 'tut-a-loo as you piddle out the door' is
an insult to our masculinity. After leaving, I made my way to the Mackintosh
tea rooms. For those who don't know, Mackintosh was an architect and interior designer
whose style helped define the artistic world of the 20th century. While not as
popular in Scotland, Mackintosh's influence is scattered about the city. As
recommend by Lonely Planet, the Willow Tea Rooms were second only to his house
(which was closed on Sundays) in terms of his brilliance. Located right above a
jewerly store (that was going out of business) the rooms provided a marvelous
introduction to his work. Having never seen his work before, I wasnt qutie sure
what to expect, but I immediately recognized his influence when I stepped
inside. Needless to say, many building today would look very different if not
for him.
after taking a gander at Mackintosh's work, I headed to St. Mungo's Museum
of Religious Life and Art. Inside I was greeted by a wide array of artifacts
from both Ancient and modern faiths. Things such as crosses, prayer shaws,
prayer rugs, and Buddha statues were all placed near each other, perhaps as a
subtle plea for interfaith dialogue. Despite being run by the Cathedral the
museum isn't afraid to highlight some of the darker aspects of religon such as
persecutions, intolerance, 7 am services etc. Nor is it unwilling to tackle the
decline of faith in the UK. Whatever your thoughts on religion are, the museum
stands as a fascinating glimpse into a mystery familiar to all people, and
mankind's efforts to solve, or at least make peace, with what that mystery.
My second to last stop of the day was in Provand's Landship. This small
house is one of the few surviving examples of medieval architecture around.
Originally constructed as part of the elaborate residence known as the Bishops
Castle, it survived the reformation intact, mostly because it was a well-built
house, Protestants as well as Catholics would want to live in. Over the years,
it served as an inn before eventually being taken over by the city. The
building is in remarkable condition (although why the ground level floor is
over in linoleum tiles is beyond me). It is rumored that Mary, Queen of Scots
stayed hear after being forced to abdicate the thrown, which adds another
feather to this houses' cap. Outside is a delightful (but modern) garden
in which herbs are grown ias a monument to the monks who frequented the houses'
service to the poor and sick. On the wall are 19th century tables originally
designed to decorate the city hall.
My final stop was Queen's Park which was right outside the budget hotel/
hostel where I was staying. The site of the Battle of Langside, today it’s a
peaceful area of recreation, one that affords excellent views of the city. The
fact that once a place of such destruction is now so peaceful, I think, acts as
a type of closure , as most of the world is moving on but acknowledging the
place is significant. In much the same way, I'm leaving Scotland, but there's
no denying that the country has become very significant in my heart.
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